(08-11-2015, 08:15 PM)thm Wrote: Make sure that the 2 motors are connected as follows:
Motor 1 is the motor that can be operated independently of the other motor and/or the motor that must be the last to reach the closed position.
1) Motor 1 COM: blue or grey
2) Motor 1 OP: may be either black or brown (and one end of 1st capacitor)
3) Motor 1 CL: may be either brown or black (and the other end of 1st capacitor)
4) Motor 2 COM: blue or grey
5) Motor 2 OP: may be either brown or black (and one end of 2nd capacitor)
6) Motor 2 CL: may be either black or brown (and the other end of 2nd capacitor)
The precise colors (black or brown) for connections #2, 3, 5 & 6 are to be determined by a try and error procedure: disengage both motors, get both gates in intermediate position, engage both motors, interrupt power for a few seconds, restore power, briefly (~0.5 sec) connect OPEN A (#9) to - (#14, 15 or 16) or the button of a remote programmed for total opening (commanding operation of both motors). Both gate leafs should begin an opening movement. Any leaf that closes, instead of opening, should have its OP and CL wires swapped.
Mechanical stops (obstacles blocking further movement) are obligatory for both the fully open and fully closed positions of both gate leafs. Closed position stops are fixed to the ground, where the leafs meet or, in case bottom of leaves is far from ground, have the form of steel chains that are fully stretched when leaves are fully closed.
Learning procedure is as follows: disengage both motors, get both gates in closed position, engage both motors, interrupt power for a few seconds, restore power, press 'F' as many times as it takes to get to the 'tL' (TIME LEARNING) menu, keep '+' pressed for as long as it takes (3+ sec) for Motor 1 to begin the opening movement. After that, you haver to mark the following positions, for each gate leaf separately, by using a button/external receiver connect between OPEN A (#9) and - (#14, 15 or 16) or a remote control programmed for total opening:
1) ~3-4sec before M1 reaches open position (at which point it should decrease speed)
2) ~1sec after M1 reaches open position (after gate leaf reaches the relevant mechanical stop)
3) ~3-4sec before M2 reaches open position (at which point it should decrease speed)
4) ~1sec after M2 reaches open position (after gate leaf reaches the relevant mechanical stop)
5) ~3-4sec before M2 reaches closed position (at which point it should decrease speed)
6) ~1sec after M2 reaches closed position (after gate leaf reaches the relevant mechanical stop)
7) ~3-4sec before M1 reaches closed position (at which point it should decrease speed)
8) ~1sec after M1 reaches closed position (after gate leaf reaches the relevant mechanical stop)
After that, press 'F' as many times as it takes for the menu to cycle back to 'In'. If you don't do that, the times learned will not be stored and will be forgotten whenever power is lost.
You (or whoever installed the operators) have to follow the instructions about the suggested installation geometry (especially the distance of the rear pivot point of the operator, in case of linear operators, from the axis of the hinges). Most operators take 20 to 30 sec to perform a movement (opening in closing) at normal speed. Also note that if the operator keeps pressing against the mechanical stop for 1-4 sec this not only is normal but actually desired (to make sure that the actual movement has been completed, even if some mild resistance was encountered - maybe wind or rusted hinges - and movement was slightly delayed and also to keep the leaves firmly pressed against the stops).
Two options that may be useful for you are 'cd' (LEAF 1 CLOSING DELAY) and 'od' (LEAF 2 OPENING DELAY - 2 s). The former belongs to the advanced programming options. In case you have an electric lock installed, there is a number of options that may also be relevant to your installation (for example 'rS' and 'cS')
If the motors don't behave properly, start by checking if the control board operates properly: disconnect motors and capacitors and use a voltage tester to check if current is present at the right contact at the right moment (phase must be connected to 'L' and neutral to 'N'). Also, lightly tap the relays with your fingers (with power disconnected): in some cases, relays get stuck (although they most definitely should never do that) and tapping them unblocks them. If this is the case, the relay should be replaced (or the board in case it is still under guarantee).
The original FAAC manuals should be enough to help you get by. Keep in mind that normally you should see 3 horizontal lines (Ξ ) on the left of the 2-digit screen (normally= photocells report no obstacle, STOP is not pressed, gate is not moving or in auto-close pause, board is not in programming mode)
Thanks for all the info, I very much appreciate it.
I found what the problem was, early in the fitting I accidently touch something with screwdriver and blew a fuse or so I thought, I also blew something on the circuit board. I pulled all plugs and fitted them straight onto a new circuit board and everything worked.
An expensive slip of the driver.
Thanks again